How Susanna Anna Maria inspired Ruskin Bond and Vishal Bhardwaj

Susanna Anna Maria Yeats Memorial

A random internet search one day led me down a rabbit hole and I ended up learning how a famous story by Ruskin Bond, Susanna's Seven Husbands, was inspired by a mausoleum on the Grand Trunk Road ageing back to the 19th century. The principal character of that particular story has an uncanny resemblance to a Dutch lady by the name of Susanna in the erstwhile Dutch colony of Chinsurah in West Bengal.

The Dutch East India Company or the Vereenigde Oost Indische Compagnie (VOC) which was set up to facilitate trade between the Netherlands and the rest of the world gradually reached the shores of Bengal and set up its business in the town of Chinsurah, transforming it into a prosperous trading port by 1615. Chinsurah remained a Dutch colony from 1615 to 1824 after which the administration changed hands from the Dutch to the British and it remained that way till India's independence. Today, Chinsurah or Chuchura is like any other town in the suburbs of Kolkata with its chaos and narrow streets but there are some remnants of the Dutch heritage which can be visited even though a lot of it has been demolished or couldn't stand the test of time. One of them is the tomb of Susanna Anna Maria located just a little outside the town, on the Grand Trunk Road.

Constructed in 1809, this solitary white tomb with its octagonal structure can be cited as the best example of Indo-Dutch architecture. It is perched on a raised platform amid a small garden.

The steps leading to the mausoleum

The two-storeyed monument has Corinthian columns and gateways along with a dome on top making it a hybrid of Neo-Classical and Baroque style of architecture. The inscription on the mausoleum reads "Susanna Anna Maria Yeats, nee Verkerk OBIT 12 May anno 1809".
   

The Corinthian columns

Not much is known about the story of Susanna, at least in the official records. Susanna Anna Maria Verkerk was a Dutch lady in the eighteenth century who had officially married twice. Her first husband was Pieter Duerys, a popular merchant and the Dutch administrator of Bengal. After his death, she married an affluent Englishman by the name of Thomas Yeats and came to be known as Susanna Anna Maria Yeats. Susanna had inherited a lot of wealth from her two marriages. She was quite fond of horses and owned "six mares and an old fashioned coach". Interestingly, the character of Susanna in Saat Khoon Maaf seemed to adore horses as well. Carrying on with the story, Suzanna had made a will before her death where she bequeathed Rs. 4000 as a trust- the interest of which would be applied to repair her tomb and those of her two husbands while the surplus funds would go to "Chinsurah Poor Fund". She also bequeathed 60-bighas of land on Taldanga Road called Ayesh Bagh which was to be used as a burying ground for the Dutch and English residents. While she is buried in this garden, the extra land that was earmarked to be a cemetery was handed over to the Government because the existing Dutch Cemetery seemed to serve the purpose.

                                         

The locals, however, have a different, more interesting story to share about Susanna, which was passed down to them from generation to generation. The folklore posits that she had married seven times and each time her husband had disappeared under mysterious circumstances. Therefore, it is locally known as Saat Saheber Bibir Kobor (Tomb of the Wife of Seven Europeans) or Memsaheber Kobor (Tomb of the European Woman). There is no evidence to support the fact that she had seven husbands but in any case, it served as an inspiration for Ruskin Bond's short story Susanna's Seven Husbands. Although in Bond's story, the protagonist is from Old Delhi, the basic essence remains the same. Here is an excerpt from his story.

"Locally the tomb was known as ‘the grave of the seven times married one’  You’d be forgiven for thinking it was Bluebeard’s grave; he was reputed to have killed several wives in turn because they showed undue curiosity about a locked room. But this was the tomb of Susanna Anna-Maria Yeates, and the inscription (most of it in Latin) stated that she was mourned by all  who had benefited from her generosity, her beneficiaries having included various schools, orphanages, and the church across the road. There was no sign of any other graves in the vicinity and presumably her husbands had been interred in the old Rajpur graveyard, below the Delhi ridge."

Vishal Bhardwaj had chanced upon this five-page story and requested Bond to expand it into a novella, and this was later developed into a screenplay with Matthew Robbins. The resulting movie, Saat Khoon Maaf,  has Priyanka Chopra Jonas essaying the role of Susanna Anna Maria Yeats.

Reading Ruskin Bond's story while taking in the charm of the place.

Whether you believe in the story or not, you should definitely visit this impressive tomb on your way to Chandannagar or the Hooghly Imambara.

GETTING THERE
By Train: Chuchura can be easily reached by train from Kolkata or Sealdah. Take any Bandel or Bardhaman (Main Line) local and you can easily reach Chuchura in an hour. You can check the timetable here.
From the railway station, you can get to the tomb via a toto, auto or a rickshaw. Just tell them that you want to go to the Memsaheber Kobor or the white temple-like structure on the GT Road.
By Car: You could also go there by car from Kolkata. I've attached the Google Maps coordinates here.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
- The tomb is open at all times and there is no entry restriction.
- The tomb can be covered in an hour and you can visit the other places in Chuchura including the     Dutch Cemetery, the Hooghly Madrasa and the Sandeshwar Jiu Temple.
- There are a few eateries near the tomb but you can get more options in the main town.

REFERENCES
1. http://dutchcemeterybengal.com/voc.php
2.  Ancient Dutch Colony Chinsurah - A Neglected Destination with Tourist Potential & Great Archaeological Value by Subrata Pal (International Journal of Scientific Progress and Research)
3. Blog post by Soham Chandra

A big thank you to my friend, Sneha Mallik, for taking me to this place.

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Surul Rajbari, Shantiniketan

When I say Shantiniketan, the first thing that would probably come to your mind is Rabindranath Tagore or Vishwabharati University and rightly so. The university town founded by the Nobel Laureate is bound to enthral everyone with its art, culture and rows after rows of greenery. There is a lot more to Shantiniketan than just the university. On your next visit, you can visit the village of Surul, which lies 5 km away from Bolpur station, if you are a lover of Bengali heritage and old houses. Surul houses a 250-year old Rajbari with a couple of terracotta temples in its vicinity that will transport you back in time. 

Surul

This non-descriptive village is famous for its 250-year-old Durga Puja celebrations which continue till the present day. Also known as the Boro Bari or Sarkar Bari, the Surul Rajbari was built by Srinivas Sarkar, a prominent zamindar in the Birbhum district. He rose to prominence in the 18th century under the patronage of the British East India Company by selling sails for their ships. With the wealth that the Sarkar family had acquired, they built many temples in and around Surul. They are also said to have played a vital role in the establishment of the Vishwabharati University. Today, the Rajbari lies desolated and comes to life during the five days of Durga Puja.

Surul Rajbari

Entering the Rajbari

As you enter the Rajbari premises, you will see the enormous Thakur Dalan (courtyard). This is where Durga Puja is celebrated traditionally by the present generation of the Sarkar family.

Thakur Dalan

The Dalan is surrounded by pillars and arches, all in shades of blue.

The pillars

Outside the Rajbari are a couple of temples. The first is a Pancha Ratna (five-pinnacled) Lakshmi Janarshan temple.

Lakshmi Janardhan temple

The exquisite terracotta work on the temple shows various scenes from the Ramayana.


Adjacent to the Lakshmi Janardhan temple is a  twin Shiva temple in the Rekha Deul style.

Twin Shiva temple

                            

Here are some more pictures of Surul Rajbari to convince you to make a visit.

Yes, that's me playing peekaboo

GETTING THERE
Like I mentioned earlier, Surul is 5 km from the Bolpur station. However, the only way to get there is by hiring an autorickshaw or a Toto. You can easily find one outside the station. There are many trains to get to Bolpur, which is 160 km from Kolkata.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

• Surul is ideal for a day- trip and will hardly take 1-2 hours to cover depending on how much time you want to spend there. 
• There are no eateries in the village so you have to go back to Shantiniketan or surrounding areas for lunch/snacks.
• There is no entrance fee to enter the Rajbari. Note that, since it is a private property so it is always better to ask for permission before entering. 

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Bulbbul and the Temples of Bawali

While watching the Anushka Sharma produced, Anvita Dutt directed film Bulbbul, I was transported back in time to the village of Bawali where this film seems to have been shot. The palatial Bawali Rajbari has been portrayed beautifully in the film with its impressive dalaan or courtyard and the hallways. From dawn to dusk, every aspect of the rajbari was portrayed beautifully through its breath-taking cinematography. Along with the Rajbari, the film also showed some glimpses of a temple near the premises which was dedicated to Goddess Kali.

The Radha Gopinath Jiu temple in the background (Courtesy: Netflix)

Temple dedicated to Goddess Kali shown in Bulbbul (Courtesy: Netflix)

While watching those scenes, I was reminded of my visit to the temples of Bawali which are now lying in a state of derelict and despair.
The main temple shown in the movie dedicated to Goddess Kali is, in reality, the temple of Radha Gopinath Jiu. It is a  navaratna (nine pinnacled) structure with a nat-mandir (open-hall) in front, whose roof had caved in. The towering structure stands out among all the other temples. The European columns leading to the temple and the intricate terracotta work on the walls give it a quite distinguished look.

The navratna structure of the Radha Gopinath Jiu temple with the natmandir.

The Natmandir whose roof caved in.

The European columns

The columns are present in the background while Binodini offers her prayers at the temple.
(Courtesy: Netflix)

This towering structure was built by the Mondal family, the zamindars of the village of Bawali in the 16th century. According to the locals, the Mondals were initially Roys with the founder being Basudev Roy. His grandson, Shovaram Roy, was given the title Mondal by the Raja of Hijli. Few years down the line, Shovaram's grandson, Raja Ram was awarded a number of villages as a token for his bravery including the village of Bawali. The Mondals, thus, built their residence there and constructed many temples. The family flourished under the influence of the East India Company and forged many trade relationships. As a result, they became one of the influential zamindars of those times. They built many temples and converted the commonplace village into a temple-town. Today, most of these temples are lying in ruins. Some of them have been renovated, while the others require immediate repair.


            

Adjacent to the temple is a dilapidated Nat-Mandap and beyond which are other temples covered in vegetation and infested with snakes making it practically impossible to even get to them.

The dilapidated Nat-Mandap

Inside the Natmandap

There are many other interesting structures scattered around the temple including the remains of a jal tungi (water folly) which is in the middle of a pond and only accessible by boat.

Pond leading to the jal tungi

If you are an architectural enthusiast and looking for a day trip from Kolkata, this might be the perfect option for you. Even if you are not into architecture or history but the aspect of going to places where films were shot excites you, then definitely visit this place before nature takes its toll on it. Although you can't enter the Rajbari premises unless you have a reservation because it is a private property, you can definitely visit the village and the temple complex without any cost.

Aerial view of the Radha Gopinath Jiu temple with the natmandir and the natmandap
(Courtesy: Netflix)

GETTING THERE
Bawali is located 40 kms from Kolkata and is easily accessible by bus or by car.
By Bus: Hop on any bus heading towards Amtala and from there take a bus to Raypur. There are several trekkers which can then take you to the temple complex. The only direct bus going to Raypur that I am aware of is Bus no.75.
By Car: Drive towards Joka and Amtala. Continue on the Thakupukur-Bibirhat-Bakhrahat-Raypur road, turn right on KP Mondal road and drive towards the Bawali High School. The Radha Gopinath Jiu temple will be visible at a distance. I've attached the Google Maps coordinates here.


ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

• Bawali is ideal for a day trip unless you are planning to stay at Rajbari Bawali. 
• For a comfortable trip, start early. The winter months would definitely make for a better experience.
• There is no restriction on photography in the temple premises. 
• Wear proper shoes and be on the lookout for snakes. 
• There are not many eateries in this area so you might want to carry some food along. There are some hotels in Amtala so you could make a pit-stop for lunch or snacks on the way. 
• If you have time after visiting the temple complex, take a rickshaw to Burul Ghat which is 11 km away from the Rajbari and you can take a boat ride on the Hooghly.
• For more information on the temples and the surrounding structures, read these amazing blog posts by Rangan Datta and Kinjal Bose.

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All pictures excluding the ones taken from the movie Bulbbul are clicked by me. Copyrights reserved.

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Titagarh - A Replica of the Dakshineshwar Temple

Shivshakti Annapurna Temple

Located at a distance of 20 km from Kolkata is a temple that looks really similar to the one at Dakshineshwar. The Shivshakti Annapurna Temple of Titagarh is one of the most marvellous temples made in terms of its size and architecture. It was built in the year 1875 by the great philanthropist Rani Rashmoni's youngest daughter Jagadamba Devi.
There is a story attached to the temple, the veracity of which  I cannot comment upon. It is said that when Mathuramohan Biswas, husband of Jagadamba Devi, assisted Rani Rashmoni in establishing the Dakshineshwar Temple, he had a strong desire to visit the Annapurna Temple of Benaras. The trip could not be effectuated for unknown reasons so he decided to find a place closer to home to build a temple. Thus, the Annapurna Temple at Barrackpore came into being with the efforts of Jagadamba Devi and Mathur Babu.
As you enter the temple, you can find the statue of a lion perched on top of the main gate which might make you wonder if it has a British connect. However, here the lion acts as a symbol of protection from adversities.

Lion statue at the entrance

Inside the temple compound is the Natmandir on the left and the temple on the right.

Natmandir and temple

Shiva temples flanking the Annapurna Temple

On the western end of the temple are six atchala (a kind of temple architecture in Bengal comprising a curved roof with triangular segments and a replica of that over the first roof) Shiva Temples.

View of the Annapurna Temple from the Shiva Temple

Natmandir

The architecture is really similar to Dakshineshwar as it was built by the same craftsmen.
The subtle differences between the two temples have been well pointed out in this blog.

A little beyond the temple is the Rani Rashmoni Ghat which is visible right from the temple. There is even a path leading to the Ganges from the temple which is locked now.

Rani Rashmoni Ghat

Rani Rashmoni Ghat

Despite being close to Dakshineshwar, this temple doesn't get the attention it deserves. Everyone should visit this temple once, believer or not.

GETTING THERE
By rail: Titagath is well connected by rails and buses from Kolkata. For a comfortable journey, take a metro to Dum Dum and from there take a local train to Titagarh. You can check the local train timings here.
From Titagarh railway station, it is a fifteen-minute walk to the temple complex.

By bus: If you are travelling by bus, get off at Talpukur bus stop between Barrackpore and Titagarh.
The temple is hardly a few metres away from the bus stop.


TEMPLE TIMINGS:
Summers: 5:30am to 12:30pm and 4pm to 8pm.
Winters: 6am to 1pm and 3:30pm to 8pm.

TIPS

• For a comfortable trip, start early. Winter months would definitely make for a better experience.
• If you go around 12-12:30pm, you might even be given the bhog offered to the deity.
• There is no restriction on photography in the temple premises.
• There are not many eateries in this area so it is advisable to carry some food along.
• Titagarh is ideal for a day trip.
  
  
  
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Andul- Of Rajbaris and Narrow Alleys

As someone who is obsessed with the old palatial houses or raajbaris of Bengal, a trip to the beautiful Andul Rajbari was something I wanted to do for a very long time. Located in the town of Andul about 15 km from Howrah, this place has the ability to take you back in time.

The rajbari with the colossal columns

 HISTORY

Andul developed as an important trading hub because of its proximity to the Saraswati river and active connections with the British. The place also gained prominence due to the presence of three zamindar families: the Dutta Chowdhurys, the Kundu Chowdhurys, and the Roys.

The majestic Andul Rajbari, locally known as Anandadhaam, is spread over 10 bighas and was built by Rajnarayan Roy of the Andul Raj family. With its monumental pillars and a vast, open ground it is visible from far although the ground is now used by the locals to play football while the two ends of the rajbari are now converted into a primary school and a residential area respectively. The pillars are made of lakhori bricks which are thin burnt clay bricks and were popularly used in Mughal architecture.

Lakhori bricks

There is a sporting club at the ground floor and a small passageway which leads you inside. The main attraction of this place is the beautiful naach mahal (the room where courtesans and musicians used to perform) which has lofty Corinthian pillars and a roof which caved in more than 50 years ago due to negligence and natural calamities.

Naach Mahal

The roof that caved in

Corinthian pillars were one of the standout features of the rajbaris which gave a regal aura to the whole place. Even though these pillars here have stood the test of time, they are in a deplorable state and need immediate repair.
 This is the only area that is open to the general public as the rest of the mansion is inhabited by tenants who aren’t particularly happy with you being around. The whole place has an uncanny aura and there are many stories floating around to establish that it is haunted.
 
To the left of the raajbari is the Annapurna temple with its 14 shiva temples. Upon entering the temple, one is greeted by the sight of a defunct cannon which was supposedly gifted to the royal family by Lord Clive. It was used in the Sandhi Puja during Durga Puja to announce the beginning of rituals by the members of the rajbari.

The Annapurna Temple with the defunct cannon

The door in front of Kundu bari

 Apart from the Andul Rajbari, one can also visit the Kundu bari and the Roy bari which are at a walking distance from the Andul Rajbari.

The Kundu bari is owned by the Kundu Chowdhurys who were affluent salt traders at the time of the British. The door to their house is intricately designed and is surrounded by  Corinthian columns. Since the house is inhabited by the members of the family, they don’t encourage tourists walking into their premises except during Durga Puja.


The Roy bari is further away from Kundu bari and one has to cross several fields and alleys to get there. One of the interesting alleys on the way there has illustrations from the Sahaj Path (the famous book on the basics of Bengali language by Nobel Laureate Rabindranath Tagore.)

Alley leading to Roy bari

The quaint little bari has a beautiful dalaan (courtyard) which gives off Wes Anderson vibes and is a perfect place to sit down after a long walk and allow yourself to be transported to a different era.

Dalaan at the Roy bari

GETTING THERE

Andul is well connected by rails and buses from Kolkata.

By rail: Andul has a railway station and all the south-bound locals from Howrah pass through it. You can check the local train timings here. Right outside the station, there are totos or e-rickshaws which will leave you in front of Rajbari. The ride would cost you around Rs.10. Alternately, you can choose to walk from the station to the Rajbari crossing narrow alleys filled with old houses on the way.

By bus: There are buses available from Esplanade and Howrah station which will drop you at Andul bus-stand. The Andul rajbari is a two-minute walk from there.

Apart from this, cabs can also be hired to Andul.

TIPS

• Andul can be covered on a day trip from Kolkata. If you start early in the morning, you can visit all the places by the afternoon.
• Although it can be visited all year round, winter is the best time to walk around and explore the alleys.
• There are a few sweet shops and budget restaurants where you can grab a quick lunch on the go.
• The rajbari is rumoured to be haunted but I did not experience anything paranormal during my visits. 
• Lastly, visit this place before nature takes its toll on the dilapidated building.
  
  

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About me

Hello, I am Krithika and welcome to my blog!
I am a twenty-something student who has a thing for old buildings, places of heritage, and pretty doors. Oh, and clicking pictures of the Victoria Memorial during different seasons.
If you are wondering why I chose this name for my blog, it is because my shoes have taken me to all these places and 'dirty shoes' to me is reminiscent of all the memories I have made from travelling. I hope to inspire and encourage you to travel no matter what challenges or difficulties you might face.

You can reach out to me on krithikasaptarishi2497@gmail.com for any suggestions, feedback or even places that you think I should visit already.
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INSTAGRAM: krithika_saptarishi

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