Andul- Of Rajbaris and Narrow Alleys

As someone who is obsessed with the old palatial houses or raajbaris of Bengal, a trip to the beautiful Andul Rajbari was something I wanted to do for a very long time. Located in the town of Andul about 15 km from Howrah, this place has the ability to take you back in time.

The rajbari with the colossal columns

 HISTORY

Andul developed as an important trading hub because of its proximity to the Saraswati river and active connections with the British. The place also gained prominence due to the presence of three zamindar families: the Dutta Chowdhurys, the Kundu Chowdhurys, and the Roys.

The majestic Andul Rajbari, locally known as Anandadhaam, is spread over 10 bighas and was built by Rajnarayan Roy of the Andul Raj family. With its monumental pillars and a vast, open ground it is visible from far although the ground is now used by the locals to play football while the two ends of the rajbari are now converted into a primary school and a residential area respectively. The pillars are made of lakhori bricks which are thin burnt clay bricks and were popularly used in Mughal architecture.

Lakhori bricks

There is a sporting club at the ground floor and a small passageway which leads you inside. The main attraction of this place is the beautiful naach mahal (the room where courtesans and musicians used to perform) which has lofty Corinthian pillars and a roof which caved in more than 50 years ago due to negligence and natural calamities.

Naach Mahal

The roof that caved in

Corinthian pillars were one of the standout features of the rajbaris which gave a regal aura to the whole place. Even though these pillars here have stood the test of time, they are in a deplorable state and need immediate repair.
 This is the only area that is open to the general public as the rest of the mansion is inhabited by tenants who aren’t particularly happy with you being around. The whole place has an uncanny aura and there are many stories floating around to establish that it is haunted.
 
To the left of the raajbari is the Annapurna temple with its 14 shiva temples. Upon entering the temple, one is greeted by the sight of a defunct cannon which was supposedly gifted to the royal family by Lord Clive. It was used in the Sandhi Puja during Durga Puja to announce the beginning of rituals by the members of the rajbari.

The Annapurna Temple with the defunct cannon

The door in front of Kundu bari

 Apart from the Andul Rajbari, one can also visit the Kundu bari and the Roy bari which are at a walking distance from the Andul Rajbari.

The Kundu bari is owned by the Kundu Chowdhurys who were affluent salt traders at the time of the British. The door to their house is intricately designed and is surrounded by  Corinthian columns. Since the house is inhabited by the members of the family, they don’t encourage tourists walking into their premises except during Durga Puja.


The Roy bari is further away from Kundu bari and one has to cross several fields and alleys to get there. One of the interesting alleys on the way there has illustrations from the Sahaj Path (the famous book on the basics of Bengali language by Nobel Laureate Rabindranath Tagore.)

Alley leading to Roy bari

The quaint little bari has a beautiful dalaan (courtyard) which gives off Wes Anderson vibes and is a perfect place to sit down after a long walk and allow yourself to be transported to a different era.

Dalaan at the Roy bari

GETTING THERE

Andul is well connected by rails and buses from Kolkata.

By rail: Andul has a railway station and all the south-bound locals from Howrah pass through it. You can check the local train timings here. Right outside the station, there are totos or e-rickshaws which will leave you in front of Rajbari. The ride would cost you around Rs.10. Alternately, you can choose to walk from the station to the Rajbari crossing narrow alleys filled with old houses on the way.

By bus: There are buses available from Esplanade and Howrah station which will drop you at Andul bus-stand. The Andul rajbari is a two-minute walk from there.

Apart from this, cabs can also be hired to Andul.

TIPS

• Andul can be covered on a day trip from Kolkata. If you start early in the morning, you can visit all the places by the afternoon.
• Although it can be visited all year round, winter is the best time to walk around and explore the alleys.
• There are a few sweet shops and budget restaurants where you can grab a quick lunch on the go.
• The rajbari is rumoured to be haunted but I did not experience anything paranormal during my visits. 
• Lastly, visit this place before nature takes its toll on the dilapidated building.
  
  

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